Years ago an eminent Master of Wine was asked which of the premium white varietals deserve to be called aristocratic. Riesling and an appropriately oaked Chardonnay was his immediate answer.

Now, thanks to daughter Lisa’s efforts, we have both with the launch of her 2020 Rabbit Chardonnay.

Two things have a large influence on Chardonnay – the extent of malolactic fermentation (malo) and the use of oak. The first produces a softer creamier texture and a buttery sensation. French oak used in moderation adds complexity, tannins and structure. Lisa has used partial malo and a mixture of new and older French oak. This means the wine is nicely balanced and lodged happily somewhere between the bold, brassy highlycoloured Dolly Partons, still popular with some philistines, and the steely dry Chablis from France which Rabbit tends more towards.

The wine is zesty and reminiscent of citrus and stonefruit.